19th Century Cook-Bookery, otherwise entitled “In Praise of Turnips”

My publishing professor was telling me last week that he is – apart from the currently hush-hush edition our class is working on – researching notes for a 19th century cookbook  he somehow got his hands on. Oh the envy! Ancient cook-bookery you say? Sorry for the phrase thievery, but do tell! Since academic integrity currently forbids me, I will only say that I have also stumbled upon some very interesting archival New York Times articles “In Praise of the Tomato” plus a corresponding catsup recipe and method for deterring chicken hawks. It’s interesting to note that people had to be told to eat their vegetables even then. :) I’d apparently erroneously thought that was all they could get their hands on!

If I were to write an article of a similar theme on a likewise deserving-but-underappreciated vegetable, it would be that of the turnip. Actually, it would be on root vegetables in general, and for many reasons: they possess all the heft and textural properties of a potato but none of the starchiness. Their flavors can be enhanced ten fold with the addition of a vinaigrette, by roasting, seasoning, or when accompanied by a complementary cheese. Moreover, the colors are so stunning and, well, autumny that they’re the perfect component to everything from a soup supper with a little baguette and BBC to the Thanksgiving Buffet.

Last weekend I made a wonderful salad from the Avoca Cafe cookbook that Col bought for me over his summer holidays home. It was a Greek yogurt, slivered almond and pickled beetroot salad. It took about 20 seconds to make and tasted wonderfully of yogurtish creaminess and tang with just a little crunch. The week before I made a chicken provencal stew in my slow cooker, for Luiz and Patricia. Luiz doesn’t take kindly to carrots so I made a puree with the immersion blender using carrots, parsnip, turnip, and a little potato. Just boil, blend, and throw in a little butter, milk, seasoning, and voila! The final effect is a marbled and earthier variation on a potato mash, but with a bittery carrot kick that was offset remarkably well by the typically salty provencal accoutrements (aka olives, tomato, basil, and falling-off-the-bone chicken).

Needless to say I had to visit Epicurious and pounced upon all the Thanksgiving recipes with root veg that I could find (there are around 37). I can’t wait to try my hand at fennel and parsnip gratin and autumn roasted root vegetable medley with sage. I’ll be headed to the market (they have the best quality and selection of root veg this time of year) where I will undoubtedly get my money’s worth!